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Introduction: The “Goldilocks” of Denim
Finding the right pair of jeans can be a frustrating exercise in extremes. Skinny jeans can feel restrictive and trendy, while loose “dad jeans” can look sloppy and dated. Then there is the classic Levi’s 501, an icon of style, but plagued by one feature that many men secretly hate: the button fly.
Enter the Levi’s Men’s 505 Regular Fit Jeans. Originally released during the “Summer of Love” in 1967, the 505 was the first zip-fly jean from Levi’s. It offers the same classic straight-leg silhouette as the 501 but adds a bit more room in the thigh and, crucially, a zipper.
In this review, we are breaking down why the 505 remains one of the most popular jeans in the world. We will analyze the fit, the difference between the 100% cotton and stretch versions, and whether this is the reliable workhorse your wardrobe needs.
Key Features and Design
1. The “Regular” Fit
The term “Regular Fit” is often used loosely, but here it is precise. The 505 sits at the waist (not too high, not too low) and offers extra room through the seat and thigh compared to a slim fit. It then falls straight down to the ankle with a 16.5-inch leg opening. This straight cut fits over boots comfortably without looking flared.
2. The Zip Fly Upgrade
For many, this is the deciding factor. While purists love the button fly of the 501, the 505 features a smooth, durable zipper. Ideally suited for convenience, the zip fly lies flatter against the front of the pants, creating a cleaner silhouette and avoiding the bulk that buttons sometimes create.
3. Material Variability
It is important to note that not all 505s are created equal.
- Rigid Finishes: Colors like “Rigid” or “Dark Stonewash” are often 100% cotton. They are tough, durable, and have zero stretch.
- Stretch Finishes: Many modern washes now include 1-2% elastane. This adds significant comfort and flexibility, making them easier to wear for active jobs or sitting at a desk.
4. Big & Tall Availability
Levi’s has committed to inclusivity with the 505 line. It is widely available in Big & Tall sizes, ensuring that the classic proportions—the pocket placement and leg width—are scaled correctly for larger frames, rather than just being stretched out.
Hands-On Experience
The Fit and Feel
Pulling on a pair of 505s feels familiar. If you have athletic thighs or just prefer not to have denim clinging to your legs, the extra room in the seat is immediately noticeable and appreciated. They don’t pinch when you sit down.
Sizing Tip: Levi’s quality control can sometimes vary between factories. We recommend trying your usual size, but be prepared that a “Made in Mexico” pair might fit slightly differently than a “Made in Egypt” pair. Additionally, the 100% cotton versions will shrink slightly, while the stretch versions will relax with wear.
Durability in Action
We tested the “Medium Stonewash” (a classic non-stretch option). The denim feels substantial and heavy—a rarity in today’s world of thin, disposable fashion. The copper rivets at the stress points (pocket corners) are not just decorative; they actually prevent the stitching from popping when you jam your hands in your pockets. The classic 5-pocket styling is functional, with the watch pocket actually being usable for coins or a guitar pick.
Styling Versatility
The 505 is the ultimate chameleon.
- Workwear: Pair the darker washes with boots and a flannel for a rugged look.
- Casual: The lighter washes look fantastic with white sneakers and a plain t-shirt (the classic “Dad” look, but cool).
- Smart Casual: A black pair of 505s can easily pass for chinos in a relaxed office environment when paired with a polo.
Pros & Cons
| ✅ Pros | ❌ Cons |
|---|---|
| Zip Fly: More convenient and flatter profile than button flies. | Sizing Consistency: Fit can vary slightly depending on the country of manufacture. |
| Roomy Thigh: Perfect for guys with athletic legs who don’t want baggy pants. | Belt Loops: Standard loops are sometimes too narrow for very wide work belts. |
| Variety: Massive range of washes, colors, and elastane options. | Shrinkage: 100% cotton models require careful washing to maintain length. |
| Durability: Riveted stress points and heavy denim ensure longevity. | Stiffness: Rigid models need a “break-in” period to soften up. |
Comparison: The Battle of the Classics
How does the 505 compare to its famous brother and a budget rival?
| Feature | Levi’s 505 Regular Fit | Levi’s 501 Original Fit | Wrangler Authentics Classic |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fly Type 🤐 | Zip Fly | Button Fly | Zip Fly |
| Fit Profile 👖 | Regular Seat/Thigh | Original (Slightly Snugger) | Relaxed |
| Leg Shape 📏 | Straight | Straight | Straight |
| Material 🧵 | Cotton or Stretch | Mostly 100% Cotton | Cotton/Poly Blend |
| Best For 🎯 | Everyday Comfort | Purists / Vintage Style | Budget / Work |
Verdict: The Best Middle-Ground Jean
The Levi’s Men’s 505 Regular Fit Jeans are the definition of a wardrobe staple. They are not trying to be high-fashion, and they aren’t trying to be cheap work pants. They sit perfectly in the middle, offering a reliable fit, durable construction, and a style that has remained relevant for over 50 years.
We recommend these for:
- The “Anti-Skinny” Guy: If you want pants that look fitted but don’t hug your calves, this is the cut.
- Comfort Seekers: The zip fly and available stretch options make these significantly easier to live in than 501s.
- Big & Tall Men: The scaling on these sizes is excellent, providing a proportional look.
If you love the heritage of Levi’s but hate fumbling with buttons, the 505 is the only pair of jeans you need to buy.
